Brrr!

Winds picked up in Marathon – ahead of a cold front that moved through the southeast.  Temperatures here were as low as 48 degrees – then again, I think that’s what they were in Salt Lake City too.  So, we unpacked the warm clothes wore them for a day or two and then went back to flip flops and shorts.  Whew!  I didn’t know if we could still survive below 70 degrees.

Verne saw the cold and b-lined it back to Hawaii.  Not really – he was always scheduled to leave on Jan 5.  We had hoped to have a Bahama crossing before then, but we just couldn’t shake that north wind.  We made the best of it and had a great time while he was here.  We made a trip out to Sombrero Beach where Verne swam in the Atlantic Ocean for the first time and Kala was able to dig to China.  Kala was so used to Verne being on the boat, it took her a minute to say goodbye as his taxi pulled away.

Mobile office in Marathon, Boot Key Harbor Marina

Family Dinghy Photo!

Verne enjoying the mooring

Enroute to the beach in the dinghy

Happy Times!

Hello? Is there anyone in there?

I'm gonna get you, China!

Just stay calm sir, I'll have you back to shore in no time!

Mas cafe por favor

More Mooring

Along with Verne, who was staying on Stella Blue until the first week of January, Gunnar and Amanda joined us for the sail up to Marathon from Key West.  The wind was on the nose and we motor sailed since we could barely come off to a close haul.

After living on a mooring in Key West for two weeks, I found an immense appreciation for all things in Marathon.  I think I ran up to the counter at the marina and registered for three days before anyone could change their mind on how long we were staying.  We all went across the street to Key Fisheries for a tasty dinner and some key lime pie and then Gunnar and Amanda headed back to Palm Beach while Verne, Baxter, Kala and I headed back to the boat.

Marathon is a 2-day sail from Miami, where Verne was flying out on Jan 5.  He had hoped to cross to the Bahamas with us but it didn't look like we would get rid of our north wind component before then, so we decided to stay and indulge ourselves with all things "Marathon".  We took showers, we got water, we went to Home Depot, I made daily trips to the grocery store - and I never even got dirty (that is saying A LOT for me!)  We had a low key (no pun intended) New Year's and Kala enjoyed not having the fanatical fireworks that we would have had to put up with in Salt Lake City.  Sorry for those who enjoy the visual bliss of the fireworks but its hard to calm a scared 66-lb dog in a very small space like a boat.

On New Year's Day, we also were lucky enough to catch up with our friends Mike and Heather and their daughters Hailey and Hannah.  They live in Atlanta and happened to be in Florida for the holidays so they drove down to Marathon and we spent the afternoon sailing around Pigeon Key.  It was a great day and the girls had never been on a sailboat so they had full practice at tacking, jibing and taking the helm.  Hannah (4 yrs old) also helped me raise the main while Hailey was the best depth watcher!  Everyone on board kept an eye in maneuvering around the crab pots as that is definitely a full time job.  Again, afterwards we went to our favorite place across the street - yep, Key Fisheries.  Pretty soon we might even get a locals discount :)

Unfortunately, the forecast started deteriorating quickly and it looked like we would be anchoring in 30+ knot winds if we started heading towards Miami.  Verne, being the sailor that he is, understood and offered to take a shuttle to Miami while we stay on the mooring ball in Marathon.  Of course, the day his flight leaves, the winds are predicted to calm and we will start heading to Key Biscayne, with hopefully a Bahama crossing not long after that.

We had a couple BIG dolphins dancing on our bow.

Gunnar, Amanda, Verne, Baxter and I (Kala is taking the pic)

Amanda at the helm

Great day, great friends.

Even Kala loves watching sunsets

Unlucky boat that anchored on an old railroad trestle.  They came back up during high tide.

Verne in Boot Key Harbor.

Hannah, Hailey, Mike and Heather on Stella Blue

Key West

We sailed down to Key West on 12/17 and planned to spend about two weeks.  Our friend, Steve, had been in Key West since the beginning of November and had everything dialed in for us.  We just showed up and a mooring was arranged (Thank You, Dennis), the local spots were dialed in, and Steve let us use his truck for errands.  We definitely had an advantage with his help.

Key West is a great place to be entertained - there are bars, shops, and restaurants to suit just about anyone's likes.  And the "people watching" in Mallory Square as well as Duval Street can be thoroughly entertaining, but as a transient cruiser, with a dog, the logistics of getting to the dock and walking around town proved to be a little difficult.  It seemed everything got a little bit wetter, a little bit dirtier and a little bit saltier.  Things that were working on the boat in Marathon decided to stop working in Key West...bilges, anchor lights, etc...To fix those things meant another wet dinghy ride to a dirty dock and usually took a few hours before you even made it back to the boat, let alone begin the repairs.  Nonetheless - we loved it!!  We had a great time and every morning the sunrises and sunsets were some of the most beautiful we have ever seen - and we are suckers for sunshine.

Our holidays were full of good tidings and Christmas Day involved relaxing at Schooner's Wharf Bar listening to Michael McLeod.  Verne arrived on 12/27.  We picked him up at the dock in our dinghy and as we were pulling out of the harbor for the 2+ mile ride back to the boat, Verne said "Hmm, it looks like a squall might be coming."  By time the words had finished coming out of his mouth, we were hit by WALLS of water.  There was 2 inches of water in the dinghy and every single thing was soaked - Kala (who was so sweet sitting still and quiet as she was soaked to the bone), the groceries, Verne's luggage, all of our clothes were wringing.  When we got on the boat we pulled up the radar and found there was, in fact, a tornado warning in Key West and water spouts had been spotted in Boca Chica, but it was passing quickly.  By 1 a.m. all was quiet on Fleming Key.

The next day, Gunnar and Amanda joined us on Stella Blue and we all prepared to say goodbye to Key West and start heading north again, waiting for our weather window to cross to the Bahamas.

Cruising by the cruise ships as we turn in front of Mallory Square

The Porch - our favorite people watching spot

New Orleans style via Key West

Stella Blue Crew

Chartered schooner at sunset.  People paid to see what we saw from our mooring every night.

Capt Tony's - the original Sloppy Joe's (oldest bar in KW)

More Capt Tony's...

Kala loving the beach and the clear water!

Sun blazing sunset (Stella Blue on left)

Key West Bight City Marina - this is the dinghy dock when it wasn't crowded

Baxter installing the new anchor light on the very top of the mast

Working on the bilge

Christmas Breakfast

Christmas Lunch

The aftermath of the "Verne" storm - one boat sank, two others ran aground

Goodbye Key West 

Marathon

We really enjoyed Marathon.  We initially were going to stay two nights but tacked on one more just because we weren't ready to leave quite yet.  It is obvious how cruisers can stay for an entire season in one spot.  The convenience of the stores within walking distance, the inexpensive mooring and the prime jump off point to the Bahamas make it one of our favorites.  Since the weather was still from the north by the 4th day and we had friends in Key West, we decided to put off the Bahamas a little while longer and keep heading down the lower keys to the southernmost point of the U.S.  

Grouper sandwiches every day.  Add the home cut fries - that's why I'm smiling.

Dinghy ride through Sister Creek to Sombrero Beach.

Does life get better?

Dinghy dock at Boot Key Harbor City Marina - so well organized.

Mooring field in BKH.  Some cruisers get their spot and call this home for a season.

Rodriguez to Marathon

When we check weather forecasts, we don’t just look at today or tomorrow – we check for 4-5 days out because wherever we go, we will have to anchor which means we need good conditions or good protection from bad conditions.  When we checked the weather for moving south, it was ugly – for at least 7 days (as far as the forecast projected) so we thought we better move now or stay in Biscayne Bay for a long time.  We charted a course to Rodriguez Key and then Marathon Key, knowing that in two days the weather will hit and it would be nice to be on a mooring in Marathon instead of at anchor somewhere else. 

As we sailed south, we turned off the engines to a great beam/broad reach and sailed all the way to Rodriguez Key – weather cooperating just beautifully. Rodriguez Key came into view and we were excited that it was a deserted island and only two boats anchored in its lee – which is where we were headed.  If you have never been somewhere, you never really know how things will be.  You can look at a chart and you can talk to people, but its just not the same as having been there.  So we put the dinghy in the water, strapped on the outboard, hoping to explore and at the worst to find somebody’s dock to bandit and take Kala to shore.  Alas, we got within  ½ mile of shore and there was only 1 foot of water around the entire area – no way we would make it, even in the dinghy.  We went back to the boat with a confused and frustrated dog – poor thing.  We convinced her it was okay to go potty on deck and she understood and complied.  Now we definitely weren’t staying here more than one night. 

We left Rodriguez Key an hour before sunrise knowing forecasted gusts of 30+ knots would arrive in the middle keys by the afternoon.  It was a beautiful day with 10-15 knots but we kept the engine going so we wouldn’t be strapped for time.  It would not be fun trying to triple reef the sails and still have 3 hours left.  We made it to Marathon in 7 hours and as we turned into the bay, the wind registered gusts of 25+.  We were happy to find our mooring and settle in for a couple days.  We had the dinghy ready to go within 10 minutes and Kala was a happy girl on dry land.  After registering at the marina, we walked across the street to Key Fisheries enjoying a nice pale ale and great seafood.  I think we’ll like it here.

Sailing the keys

Blue Skies, winds on the horizon

Boot Key Harbor City Marina mooring field

Belly rubs for a tough doggie.

No Name

Saturday morning we left Lake Sylvia with moderate conditions offshore.  It would only be 26 miles down to Key Biscayne and No Name Harbor anchorage once we got out the Port Everglades inlet.  The conditions going out were a washing machine and things got knocked around the boat and we weren’t sure our stomachs would hold out, but we knew that it would only be 4 or 5 hours and it would be over.  We arrived to calmer conditions in Biscayne Bay and not too many boats anchored out.  No Name Harbor is part of Bill Baggs State Park on Cape Florida.  It was comparable to a civilized Cumberland Island with a lot more people and lots of blaring music and flashy boats.  Since the anchorage was outside the harbor, we didn’t mind too much.  We let Kala run and play and then went back to our peace and quiet on the boat.  That night, the Miami boat parade came along right next to our boat and you could see boats decorated with christmas lights for miles.  It was nice to enjoy the festivities right from the middle of Stella Blue’s cockpit.

SE 17th Street Bridge, Ft Lauderdale, 55 ft draw bridge

Container ship with Miami skyline in the background

No Name Harbor anchorage

Working up the nerve to jump in for the first time this winter

Baxter inside the engine compartment tracing a leak from one of the return valves.

Bill Baggs State Park 

Cape Florida Lighthouse - lastest rebuild 1825

Cape Florida at sunrise as we were leaving (lighthouse peaking through the trees)